fredag 29 juli 2011

I know what they serve in hell

America Is Doomed: it's official. Cue the "Lucifer" burger.

No, it has nothing to do with chili or abusing sacred ingredients such as gold, foie gras or truffle. However, in some books gluttony is a sin and this burger will probably put you in hell (or in hospital) in this life.
I am speaking of The Doughnut Burger.

(image from ThisIsWhyYoureFat)

And if you didn't just have a minor heart attack, here's another happy picture of someone attempting to commit very creative suicide.

(image from ThisIsWhyYoureFat)

I'm all for being wowed with Heston-style one-thing-posing-as-another food, but this... this is just gross. Who would want to eat this anyway?

Where do good chefs come from?


I might be throwing stones in glass houses with this post, but then someone has to do it.
The restaurant business is notorious for being hard: long hours, hard work, small paychecks. And lets face it: most chefs and waiters didn't end up in their current jobs because they had unlimited academic success. In this industry, more than perhaps any other (apart from the fashion industry), young hopefuls can't afford to be starry-eyed visionaries. They have to be tough, they have to be resilient, they have to work hard and to be willing to do anything it takes. Visions, hopes and dreams are for after hours, and there are very few of those. So what's with all these kids that have done two months at culinary school and are already calling themselves "chefs"? They all seem to want to make a sphere before they can make a decent sauce. Even worse are perhaps the gratuity school students who want to be wine waiters before they can decant a bottle of red.

We have been blessed with a few really good cooks - Titti's quality control when it comes to applicants has yet to fail - that are hungry for knowledge but really put in the work. You'd have a good laugh at some of the people we have to turn down for internships. Have you heard of osmosis? Well, let me tell you, it's not a learning method that works - in any field. Everyone wants to be a superstar, or maybe Bobby Flay, rather than a good cook. And that's just sad.

(image from google.com)

torsdag 28 juli 2011

You call this summer?


I'm back from what was supposed to be a two-day vacation. Supposed to be, as in turned into a one-day scramble to fit in about five hundred chores, meetings and urgent items on my very long to-do list. Needless to say, by the end of Monday my brain must have taken on the appearance of a scrambled egg. I know this because by Tuesday I'd forgotten that I was supposed to be off and did a full day of work. A colleague who had been watching me slave away all day was a bit mystified by the time I decided to break up for dinner: "I thought you were off today", he said. I'm told the look on my face was priceless.

Anyway, I've spent the last week writing an article. See, we scientists get to call ourselves "authors" when we've published something in a scientific journal. This doesn't mean we necessarily have a degree in writing, or even an evening course in the art of prose. What it does mean, however, is that we've published something generally agreed by the science community to be an actual factual report on something we've discovered to be true. The process of publishing is harrowing: you write, double check, write, triple check, send the article around to various co-authors for quadruple checks, you re-write. And that's before you submit it to a journal. When you've submitted your work to a scientific journal, it goes through something called "peer-review", which is three or four experts from your area of research that check your article thoroughly. And when I say thoroughly, I mean thoroughly. They check your references, they check your spelling and grammar, your results, your statistics, your conclusions, everything. If there is even the slightest problem, you'll know. The article has to "pass" this peer-review before it is accepted to be published, often with heavy editing. The standards in the high-impact (highly rated) journals where everyone wants to publish are sky high. Did I tell you it's a harrowing experience?

So I'm a bit confused over the latest from Eric Asimov and Jancis Robinson. They seem to want to have a blogger and a writer be the same thing. I can't disagree more. My blogging is quite different in both style, research and execution than my writing for scientific journals. This blog is an opinion, a story and a very personal and subjective expression of experience. My writing for journals has very little to do with my personal opinions, it's all about indisputable facts. In the blog I can report what I've heard in the restaurant, on the street and in the blogosphere. I can't even begin to imagine the slamming I'd get if I wrote the following in a scientific article: "I heard from a friend that this is true, so that is what I base this article on". That is the big difference for me between printed media and blogs, the printed media publishes factual accounts of what's going on in the world - in a blog you can say what you please. I've really had enough of people calling themselves "food and wine writers" or "restaurant critics" and then two sentences later professing to know fuck-all about wine. By all means, be a blogger, but don't call yourself a critic. Criticism is quite the art (says the person who has had a lot of work with different peer-reviews) and it only really means something if you know what you're talking about.

(image from XKCD)

söndag 24 juli 2011

What to do on a rainy Sunday afternoon?


I happen to know that millions of souls who crave immortality don't know what to do with themselves on a rainy Sunday afternoon. Let me suggest our Jazz nights, where Chico Lindvall and his band of boys play their jazz favourites while Titti and her crew dish out their own compositions, so to speak. Relax, have some tapas and a glass of bubbly, and I promise you that everlasting rainy Sunday afternoons won't look so bad.

Premier Crüe?

Things are not what they should be in the world, especially right now in Scandinavia. The huge tragedy in Norway on Friday pretty much eclipsed everything else, and now the internet is a-buzz with why's, how's and other questions without adequate answers.
Without trying to belittle what happened so close to here, I have a short list of things which could be blasted off the face of the earth and no one would miss them (they're all food-and-wine related misshaps, don't worry). With such large things out of place that are impossible to put right, I feel that busying oneself with correcting small cosmetic imperfections in the fabric of the universe, such as sanding down splinters on a beam, might be a small comfort of sorts.

First out is the concept of fruit leather. Yes indeed, you read it correctly. Fruit leather. I've never had it, and I really don't want to know what it tastes like. Here's a clue to all you people who "find yourselves swimming with ripe fruit at the end of the summer": freeze it. Sprinkle a small amount of sugar on the berries and freeze it for christ's sake. My God, if you're considering making fruit leather with your bounty of fruit, you're not deserving, I tell you.


(image from seriouseats.com)

Second to this is the "fwahger". Yes. Again, you got it right. It's a burger with a foie mayo. I think I've said enough.

Third is the horrifying list that the Guardian has compiled of celebrities that produce different alcoholic beverages. How about Cabo Wabo tequila from Van Halen? Or Vince Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Sonoma Chardonnay from Mötley Crüe? Or Santana DVX bubbly? The list goes on and on. Please, people. Get a grip. Drinking a lot is not the same as being a connoisseur.


(image from guardian.co.uk, Photograph: Michael Tullberg/Getty Image)

lördag 23 juli 2011

Our thoughts and prayers go out to our friends in Norway.

Who is surprised?


Just as reports of farmers struggling with Roundup-resistant weeds have been hot in the headlines recently, we're been told that when we buy blended teas (such as herbal teas) we're not just getting the peppermint we payed for. We're also getting trees and parsley.
Am I the only person who thinks that if your farming techniques don't include some kind of sorting or quality control, then maybe it's time to downscale? Let's think about this. Produce that's farmed to a massive scale doesn't often make the cut of high-end high-price high-quality stuff that you see in special plastic bags marked "ecological/organic/biodynamic" (I don't know what's ecological about the special plastic bags though). Products farmed to industrial scale retail for low prices. That's because the most expensive thing known to man (read: large corporations) is manual labour. I don't know of any farming machine that boasts a "human touch" when it comes to separating the wheat from the chaff. So, who buys this stuff and then complains it's crap? There's a saying that goes "you get what you pay for". If you're buying a herbal tea for 3,50 kr per box and the majority of the "tea" is tree-parts, then I somehow feel that you've forfeited your right to complain. I'm sure you know that trees are also part of the plant family so when they say it's "herbal" they're not quite lying. To paraphrase: it would be a different story if you were paying for 80% Grand Cru Criollo and received Lys Melk in a bar from Karamellkungen.

I was told once that there's no such thing as a free lunch. I've found that to be all too true.

(image from google.com)

fredag 22 juli 2011

It's all just mushrooms.


Once upon a time, I was a very picky eater. If you want to hear the full story on how that changed, you should ask Igi about the day he made me eat foie gras on toast for the first time (he'll give you the full low-down, complete with funny facial expressions and a falsetto imitation of my voice). To make a long story short - I was a typical stick-thin fusspot who didn't eat anything intestinal/offal-ish, overly meaty, unidentifiable, or grey. This meant that a lot of mockery came my way from the boys in the kitchen, and Igi being who he is decided that it was all folly on my part (he was right, but don't tell him I told you so) and that it needed to change. Within weeks I was eating fish heads and what-have-you with delight. The delight wore off slightly after I discovered that I'd gained a couple of pounds, but that's another story (I learnt how to balance food-delight and jogging, thank you A for getting me back in my running shoes). So, all well and good, eh?

I'm blessed beyond what I deserve with a husband who isn't even remotely fussy about what he eats. He'll try everything once, and if he didn't like it the first time chances are he'll give it a second shot just to make sure. However, I have sympathy with all the unlucky souls I've met throughout my career who are partnered up with picky eaters. You know the type: when the food arrives, they bark "what's this?" and then, regardless of what they're told they dissect every little item on the plate until it resembles some kind of chef-accident on a plate. I've never seen anyone successfully manage to convince a picky eater to eat what's "suspicious" on their plate, so when I read Florence Fabricant's dining Q&A at Diners Journal I fell over laughing: she managed to convince her husband to eat chicken kidneys and coxcombs by telling him it was all mushrooms. Good on you, Florence.

(image from google.com)

torsdag 21 juli 2011

Speaking of the cellar


I have just, to my great surprise, found out that to most people under 40, the concept of ageing wine is foreign. REALLY? Really, as in really - really? Privately I can't cellar a lot of wines as I don't have the space. And also, I haven't been in the business of buying and collecting wines for very long. But I don't, ever, buy wine the same day I want to drink it. I can't. I like good wine, and as I've detailed in previous posts, Systembolaget hides all the good wine somewhere other than in their stores so acquiring a nice bottle is a bit of an undertaking. Apparently, the majority of wine purchased in stores is consumed within 24h. Now, here's just a small thought - if buying a nice, age-able bottle wasn't a three-week project, maybe the buy-and-drink thing would change. I think cellaring wines is a good thing. The wines get better, see. You can view it as an investment. Buy a 400€ bottle, and in ten years, it's worth 1000€ (as in the case of Bordeaux, for instance). It you have the space, that seems to me like quite a good payoff.
Also, and that may just be my obsessive personality, I happen to think collecting is fun. If you're interested in why wine should be cellared, Wine Spectator has a convincing editorial. If you're interested in cellared wines, but don't want to collect the bottles, tell Igi that you want to come to our next cellar night, were we serve select bottles that we've collected and aged.

(image from google.com)

Which came first?


There are many culinary mysteries out there, such as why oysters are delicious and why basil-infused espresso is disgusting. Actually, I do understand why basil-infused espresso is disgusting, but I don't know why oysters are delicious and I certainly don't understand the logic of the man who decided to start that whole aphrodisiac-myth about a small, raw mollusc. Some things just are. I think the big question here might be "what came first?" - the aphrodisiac myth or the delicious food? Maybe I'm bracketing again. But I am curious - if the myth came first, then who was the perv turned on by an oyster? If the delicious food came first, who was the perv turned on by an oyster?
Personally, I find chocolate, meringues and cream more of a turn-on. However, that's a turn-on as in I had a meringue with chocolate and cream and I liked it. Not the other way around. The raw produce (specifically raw egg whites) doesn't do it for me, see. I had this discussion with a chef friend who likes nitpicking, so he wanted to know if it was any kind of meringue. "Can it be, like, Oeufs à la Neige, or, say, Île Flottante?", he wanted to know. (That's snow eggs and floating islands, if you're not fluent in cookbook-french). Actually, I have to confess I didn't know there was a difference between snow eggs and floating islands. There turns out there is:
-snow eggs are poached in milk whereas floating islands are baked in a bain-marie
-snow eggs don't contain caramel whereas floating islands do
-snow eggs are poached in sweetened milk or water whereas floating islands have hazelnuts in the meringue and it's baked in a mold
-the name snow eggs refers to the shape of the meringue whereas the name floating islands refers to how the egg whites float in a puddle of crème anglaise

Well, either way, it's a meringue. So I guess, once again, the question is: what came first? The snow egg or the floating island?

(image from google.com)

tisdag 19 juli 2011

Speaking of going back


The famed restaurant Bistrotheque in east London is going backwards, specifically to the year I first saw daylight (1988). 1988 was a good wine year, especially for Sauternes and Champagne, but aside from that, what was going on? As I was in nappies I can't profess to have any specific memories of culinary or cultural events. Luckily, I can go back with Bistrotheque. "Housed on the third floor of an office building in Canary Wharf for five nights from tomorrow, "eightyeight" will have waiting staff dressed in Katherine Hamnett, music exclusively from 1988, an interior inspired by "yoof" TV show Network 7 featuring neon tubing and venetian blinds, and a menu created exclusively from dishes served that year."
Browsing the net for dishes specific to -88, all I seem to find is "salad with balsamic vinegar". Huh? I guess one should cash in on that: I propose the 88-diet. Salad with balsamic dressing (preferably aged balsamic) and a glass of -88 vintage champagne or -88 vintage Sauternes. The salad can be a fruit salad. Oh, and you'll need to wear pieces from Versace's upcoming collection for H&M, which promises to raid the archives of the 80's, to get into the true spirit of -88.
Or, you could just have a big slice of steak and thank god most restaurants left the balsamic-dressed salad in the early 90's.

(image from google.com)

When Titti gets greedy

Sometimes someone comes along with some very nice goodies. Titti can then get very greedy. Like summer truffles, for instance. Asif from Bustamante came along with some lovely smelly stuff, and Titti snatched them. Really. I think Asif might have been shooting this video at the time, so maybe he didn't notice.

When Miguel climbed on board, we knew they'd lose

I'm sure no one has missed the world cup finals in women's football. Well, actually I missed most of it. But I did manage to note who won, at least. I know who won because on the night of the finals we had Japanese guests at Bloom. They were in Sweden on business, and were taken to Bloom by their colleagues. Let me get this straight before any of you get crazy ideas: we're not O'Leary's. We have no television, we have no beer-spill anywhere, we have no inept waitstaff. What we do have, however, is the ability to stream football live on the computer in the office. For you who haven't been into the office (which was pretty much my home for several years), I'll describe what it looks like. It's a room about the size of a small cupboard. It has a square window that serves as a fire escape. It also has a locker that used to serve as my own private shoe-closet. You can just about swing a cat (or a very small rat) in there. Anyhow, as the Japanese guests had finished their dinner, we thought we'd offer to show the last 20 minutes of the game in the office. How we managed to pile five guests plus Igi and Miguel down there I don't know. All I know is we did. I personally think there's a plastic quality to men that magically appears when having to fit into a small space to watch women playing ball, but on the other hand I do know that three women can fit in the office to change into go-out gear after service. Anyway, everyone but Miguel decided to support the Japanese, and that should have been a clue as to who would win. Poor Miguel thumped the office desk so hard it left a permanent imprint on his fist when the Americans scored. Sadly, it'll be like a tattoo of an ex-girlfriend's name: when the Japanese won, he looked like he'd just swallowed a lemon.
It's funny what a little game of football can do. I can't remember the exact figure of revenue generated for the much-needing Japanese economy, I just know it was vast. Not to mention the pride and joy that comes from winning (not like Charlie Sheen, though. That's bastardizing a perfectly good word if you ask me). We're used to mad expressions of testosterone-fueled happiness when games are on in Stadion, and don't get me wrong: the Japanese were joyous. It's just the kind of joyous that has nothing to do with grabbing one's crotch and yelling obscenities. The only obscenities that night were Miguel's mutterings under his breath.

Worthy of a Queen?


I'm not the kind of person to pay much attention to royals, especially since I've come to the quite unfortunate conclusion that most of them are rather dim (some more than others would in civilian clothes pass for British Rail employees). There are exceptions that prove the rule, of course: you must respect a monarch that employs the likes of Jancis Robinson to select wines for the royal cellars. There is a fabulous tell-all article at jancisrobinson.com listing all the juicy details of how the selection happens: how much for a bottle to be served at a state visit? And of all the bottles, which one do you think Bloom has in its cellars? You'll be surprised, I promise.

måndag 18 juli 2011

I'm not going back


I was perusing the web for some interesting wine facts, and by accident (or fate) stumbled upon something that will keep me well away from the rock 'n roll lifestyle of my youth. (By the way, isn't it nice to find something that would have thrilled you a couple of years ago, and that now makes you go "ah, the blissful ignorance of youth"? Especially when you're 23, let me tell you...) I tend to think we're quite rock 'n roll at Bloom, but it's a kind of "work hard, play hard" rock 'n roll, not a tigerblood-car crash-rock 'n roll.
Anyhow, what I found is actually quite appalling. It's Whitesnake (who's music I actually quite like - I saw them live at Sweden Rock Festival a couple of years ago) gone winemakers. It's also Whitesnake gone illiterate foodwriters. Listen to this:
"It's a bodacious, cheeky little wine, filled to the brim with the spicy essence of sexy, slippery Snakeyness ... I recommend it to complement any & all grown up friskiness & hot tub jollies ... Is this love? ... I believe it is ..."
That's the official description of Whitesnake 2008 Zinfandel from Russian River Valley. Actually, to me it sounds like Whitetrash Zinfandel. I may be wrong, in which case I'll change my name to Zinf and attempt to reinvent the faux-hawk and torn jeans of my youth. But, at a mature 23 years of age, I doubt whether I'm cheeky and snakey enough to pull it off.

söndag 17 juli 2011

Food glorification


If you haven't done so yet, I really recommend you listen to the video posted below: David Mitchell's Soapbox is one of my favourite food commentaries. In this video, my favorite part is when he says "hamburgers are just glorified sandwiches [...], and I would prefer it if they were not glorified any more". He also mentions the very English treat called "Knickerbocker Glory". WTF (abbreviated to avoid teaching the younger generation expletives) is a Knickerbocker Glory, you might ask? Well, that too is a glorified version of something we all know: ice cream, served in a tall glass with the toppings of your choice (yes, I know that's the precise description of an ice cream sundae. I did just mention the glorified bit, didn't I?). Also, the name invokes all sorts of perverse images - Agent Provocateur might want to cash in on that. But it doesn't have anything to do with the word knickers and its meaning in this century, rather it speaks of the long-lost pantaloons that young boys wore in the 1930's. You know, the type of baggy breeches that one substituted for man-pants when one was of suitable age and posture.
I don't know (and Wikipedia doesn't either) whether the Knickerbocker Glory has some sort of trouser-related use back in the day. All I know is that adults order ice cream sundaes and kids order Kickerbocker Glories. I suppose the name might have something to do with a more modern rite of passage: "thou art now of age to order thy first ice cream sundae. I hope your pants fit".

(image from google.com)

Don't like it? Have Chef eat it.







lördag 16 juli 2011

A challenge?


This is for all you Potterwatchers out there: I've read at mainstreamnemesis.com that it took Warner Bros 3 years to whip up a good, working recipe for butterbeer. And then it's still not beer, but some kind of sugar pop with the head (the fluffy foam on top of the beverage - which you get when you pour real beer) added afterwards as a separate ingredient. I cry scandal, but then I'm not only a hardcore Potter fan, I'm also a firm believer in magic - which is clearly lacking here if you need to top an ale with its head of fluff. Maybe their chefs were using the wrong wands to stir?
God knows. With my limited knowledge of food magic I'd suggest tapping in to the biblical powers of bacon, which I've spoken of in previous posts. However, I've worked with Titti for long enough to know that if there's anyone who can put magic in a glass (you haven't tried her pre-dessert yet?) it's her. Warner Bros: you have our number. Just sayin'.

HARRY POTTER, characters, names and related indicia are trademarks of and © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. © 2011 Universal Orlando Resort. All rights reserved. Photo credit: Kevin Kolczynski, Universal Orlando Resort

July is ice cream month


Ronald Reagan did one good thing, and that was to mandate that July be national ice cream month. That's ice cream as in the sweet, frozen stuff, it has nothing to do with odd foodstuffs served in cones and does not come in pizza flavor (yet).
I love a teaspoon of vanilla ice cream in my espresso in the summer. If Mon Cher and I didn't alternate for our weekly shopping there would be a lot more of it in our house. We did, for a short, blissful time last year, live right next door to the ice cream shop Is á Bella in Malmö. We realised it had gone a bit too far when our breakfast seemed lacking without a scoop of coffee ice cream. Sadly, our current abode offers nothing in the way of feeding our summertime fix: ICA only stocks Ben&Jerry's sickly sweet kiddie delights as well as their own special brand of frozen air with sweetened cream whipped through it.
Anyway, as summer is here I'm picking up the strangest recipes for ice cream, and some really spaced-out condiments too. I've had an unfortunate experience with vanilla ice cream and a tired mind (Swedes: cola and kola are two different things and one of them does not compliment ice cream...) so while perusing blogs for the ultimate icecream topping I sometimes just have to take the authors word for it.

So, what is my favorite ice cream? There are classics, of course, such as caramel and sea salt and espresso - but Titti's special ice cream made from ängssyra might just take the prize. You prefer something savoury? Her ruccola ice cream sure makes eating rabbit food more appealing...

(image from google.com)

torsdag 14 juli 2011

Back to basics (burgers)


There is something about burgers which I clearly do not get. I haven't had a burger in years, and now I'm beginning to wonder if I'm missing something. Burgers are being turned into haute-cuisine - the labour intensive, cost-insensitive brainchild of high-powered chefs all over the world. When J. Kenji Lopez-Alt of Serious Eats recently wrote about the strangest burger of his life, he stated "What emerged from the kitchen had me struggling to hold back fits of laughter. Was it art? Was it cuisine? Was it comedy? Was it interactive kinetic sculpture? I'd say yes to all of these, so much so that how it actually tasted was largely beside the point (it wasn't particularly good)."
I don't know any other people other than foodies (and children) that eat high-priced food they don't like for sake of experience. I'm of an inquisitive mind (and only just out of childhood, according to some) so I'm now scouting around to find out why the humble burger is sparking such interest. I found some clues when reading about Heston Blumenthal's "Blumenburger", which sports some interesting stats, to say the least:

Number of ingredients to make a cheeseburger: 3 (meat, cheese, bun)
Number of ingredients to make a Blumenburger: 32
Cost of average homemade half-pound cheeseburger: $3
Cost of Blumenburger: $9
Time required to make average cheeseburger: 7 minutes (3 minutes of prep, 4 minutes cooking time)
Time required to make Blumenburger: 30 hours, 4 minutes (30 hours of prep, 4 minutes cooking time)

So, burgers are cheap, simple and quick to make. No biggie. Everybody knows a burger. But do you know what a "slider" is? No? Then how about a "Guberburger"? No? What about a "Maid-Rite"? Or the fabulously named "Slug burgers", which have nothing to do with Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets? Turns out it's not just chefs that are fiddling the ol' recipes. If you're not put off, I suggest you vamoose over to Serious Eats and check out the list of burgers you had no idea existed. Having browsed all the fascinating combinations, I'm still wondering if this is a good thing. To me, it just seems like so much meat. I guess that answers the question of where all animals from Ol' McDonald's farm went...

(image from google.com)

Short memory, or just battle hardened?


To many people with regular jobs, the prospect of working in a restaurant might seem exciting. It's a social job, with the added perks of food and beverage. Don't get me wrong: it IS exciting. It's just not for everyone. I'm going to talk you through it today.
The job as such never really changes. You might serve different guests, different plates of food and different wines - it's like changing the constellations in a starry sky; it's still dark, still night, still starry - same setting, different pinpricks of light. Regardless of what your serving to whom, you get a lot of the same questions (that's why waiters can come off as short-tempered: it's the first time the customer asks, but the millionth time the waiter answers the question). Sometimes I think the Pope would be the ultimate waiter: all those virtues do come in handy, especially if you've got the higher aim of sainthood. Most of us, just like most of you, have the small concern of paying the rent spiced up with all those little ticklers of getting on with life. Also, the achievements are less obvious on a day-to-day basis. If you think about it, what happens after the ultimate service (customers crying tears of happiness, tipping galore, making further bookings years in advance)? Well, you clean up, polish plates and glasses, have a talk, maybe a drink, and then you go to bed. Only to get up the next morning to do it all over again. It never ends. It's the same four walls, the same procedure. That's why restaurant staff are such a migratory folk: the variation lies in change of milieu. It takes a special kind of person to not only love your restaurant job, but to stick to that same restaurant job for any period considered "normal" in the outside world.
So, to conclude, because I'm the type of person who loves working at Bloom and who will probably continue to work at Bloom even after I'm a docent, I have a small truth to share with you. Life is not one damn thing after another, it's one damn thing over and over. And we love it.

onsdag 13 juli 2011

You get what you pay for?


Terry Theise has written one of my favourite books, called Reading between the wines. In a recent article in Serious Eats, he lists the five things which determine the price of wine:
1. The cost to produce it and bottle it, both tangible (labor, quantity per unit of land, supplies and equipment, bottles, closures, capsules and cases, among other things) and intangible (e.g., debt service),
2. The laws of supply and demand, along with the grower's willingness to price based on what the market will bear,
3. Logistical and distribution costs to get the wine from the producer to you,
4. Costs to comply with all federal, state and local regulations, and
5. for imported wines, the prevailing value of the local currency (Swedish Krona).

As most wines are imported, one can presume a more or less fixed cost of transport and tax for every bottle of wine (small differences in cost are inevitably incurred depending on if the bottles have to cross the pond). This means that to wine importers, you get twice the wine for 70 SEK as you would for, say, a 50 SEK bottle. For consumers who have to go through Systembolaget, we're not quite as lucky. Systembolaget adds 19% of the cost price, PLUS an additional 3,50 SEK per unit. For your average customer (average pocket depth, that is) this is a lot of money. You do the math on a 80 SEK bottle.
As of April this year, wine importers have a free rein to adjust their prices. That sounds great, doesn't it? This stroke of genius has taken the load off Systembolaget to negotiate the prices of wine. All well and good, yeah?
No. This means that if a wine importer raises their prices, Systembolaget is free to go find a "similar product" for a lower price. Now I can't be the only one who realises what happens when you set some pen-pusher on the task of finding a cheaper red wine....

tisdag 12 juli 2011

Start 'em early


I really like Andrew Jefford's Monday columns in Decanter. This week, he's chosen to write about a topic close to my heart: palate.
It's a well-known fact in the science community that the palate (sense of smell and taste) ages quickly. In fact, palate acuity peakes at the age of eleven. That's why kids seem to be able to pick out the most microscopic fragment of parsley out of their meatballs, if you were wondering. Something I at my age (which is not THAT old...) barely notice. Sarah Jessica Parker claims otherwise, of course. I think that's what they call "exceptions that prove the rule", but now I'm veering off topic. It's as Jefford astutely states: "Age’s trump card is experience and memory: you can fit things into a context younger tasters don’t have, and dredge the memory bank for sensorial similitudes. But older tasters would be ill-advised to rubbish a younger palate when it uncovers surprising details". In a large Danish Study published in 2008 and reported in ScienceDaily, Bodil Allesen-Holm (MSc in Food Science and Technology) says "It is quite clear that children and young people are very good tasters, and that there are bigger variations between them than most people would expect. There is, for example, a marked difference between boys and girls, and the ability of children to recognise tastes changes with age. So one could easily develop more varied food products and snacks for children and young people. For example, it is quite clear that children do not necessarily prefer sweet things. According to the findings, healthy snacks could easily be developed for boys with slightly extreme and sour flavours."
We've had plenty of kids accompany their parents at Bloom, and in a very non-scientific way we can confirm that while they might not know it's name, they sure know what it tastes like. I just wonder when we're going to catch up with what the French and have Systembolaget employ a bunch of eleven year-olds as their new panel of tasters. Considering the selection they offer now, it sure can't hurt.

(image from google.com)

måndag 11 juli 2011

Fashionable foodstuffs


And for those of you who thought Lady Gaga was the only person ever to find fashion in food, I hereby present some couture to be craved. From Gaultier's bread dresses to South Korean artist Sung Yeonju's aubergine dress. I find this to be an excellent combination for those armchair Alexander Wangs and recreational Ramsays out there. Fine dining is supposed to be haute cuisine, why not try some cuisine couture? Though I might discourage anyone from trying on that cream puff dress in this lovely weather we're having...

(images from thefrisky.com)

Bracketing.


To those of you who think that food and wine might become boring at some point (personally, I think that's what happens when you die) I have a suggestion. You need to try the philosophical activity of bracketing. Bracketing is when you look at something in a concentrated, conscious way, so much so that it becomes new and strange.
I did this the other day with our Verdejo. Verdejo is a grape from Rueda in Spain. The question was "What do you serve with a Verdejo?", and now the question has morphed into "What can't you serve with a Verdejo?". The process was like a prison break - high walls of do's and don'ts and can's and can'ts were suddenly nothing but redundant structures representing the confinement of a willpower that cannot be confined. A Cinderella of the wine world.
Well, now I've got it. If I were Egypitan I would be buried with it. You know what they say, save the philosophical musings for the afterparty.

lördag 9 juli 2011

What would you have them drink?

I don't know if you're the type of person to regularly peruse Gawker, but let me tell you it's worth it. Few of the posts are food-and-wine related, but the ones that are are too good to miss. I'm half-way through my Saturday night when I stumbled upon their article about the Republican Paul Ryan ordering wine in a bar.
Paul Ryan is "a leading advocate of shrinking entitlement spending and the architect of the plan to privatize Medicare", and apparently made the mistake of ordering a nice bottle of wine in a Capitol Hill bistro. The problem was not so much the quality of the wine, but the fact that another customer at the restaurant noticed that it was $350 for a bottle. And it wasn't just one bottle - it was two! Comsumed by a party of three! On a Friday night! Outside work hours! "Those two bottles of wine cost more than two-income working family making minimum wage earned in a week"! Outrage!
Hello Communism! If two income-working families can't afford two of these bottles per week, NO ONE SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO BUY THEM!!

Seriously. I prefer my political representatives to drink a nice bottle of wine with their buddies, rather than, say, a bottle of cheap-ass tequila. See, the latter speaks of a kind of lack of judgement I'd rather not endorse. And as for the thankless task of being a politician, I'm just glad that all the bureaucracy I have to deal with professionally are Sweden's alcohol and tax laws. And THAT, let me tell you, often requires more than two nice bottles of wine with my buddies to get through.

Saturday reading

In these times when a majority of the population in a country considered "developed" believes that animals are born with an assortment of rectangular muscles, I find it's good to delve into the deep coffers of the common knowledge of the internetz to find out where on the scale of C. elegans to cerebral one is standing today. I think food knowledge is a good place to start - after all, we all stuff some kind of calorific pulp down our oesophagus on a daily basis. The benevolent internet is not a discriminating place, even anorexics can find comprehensive guides on what to do with their preferred vehicle of sustenace (water). Or maybe I'm being too cerebral about a guide on how to boil water, maybe someone out there was born at the age of twenty-five, missing that very first home ec class.



Moving up a step, Rachael Ray, the woman who's voice inspred the first nails-on-blackboard choir, has posted a recipe on how to make late-night bacon. I suppose the lack of an early-morning bacon recipe implies biblical consequences of this last supper-quality meal. (Many esteemed food writers have praised the magical quality of bacon to transform almost any dish. I quote: “Life expectancy would grow by leaps and bounds if green vegetables smelled as good as bacon.”—Doug Larson. I therefore have no doubt that bacon is the missing magical ingredient required for actual transsubstantiation.)



The next step seems to be your average American conundrum, namely "how can I make a pizza out of that?". Want an ice cream cone? There´s now the PizzaCone! Just what the world needed. The deeper meaning of pizza toppings has even become a legitimate discussion topic for prospective presidential candidates. I guess if Sarah Palin chose a sprinkling of bacon on her late night pizza with Donald Trump, and we haven't heard from her this morning (yet), it means we can expect some kind of ressurection to occur. Let's just hope it's of the time when Alaska was thought to be part of the north pole and no one had heard of the sin of further bastardizations of fast-food abominations.



(images from google.com)

fredag 8 juli 2011

"There's a machine for that"


Sometimes science and technology make you wonder. Just like the food and wine industry spend approximately the GDP of a small equatorial country on crop enhancement, the science industry spends hugely disproportionate amounts of money on sometimes useless products with a view to the market where gadget-junkies shop.
If we stop to think about it, how many things do we own that actually save time and enhance the quality of our lives? I, for instance, own two teapots. One large enough to serve several people, and one small one that fits on top of a cup. I thought the small one was really cute, but now that I've used it a couple of times, I know that the fact that it fits on top of a cup is a bit of a moot point as I can't drink out of the cup if the teapot is on top.
Some things can of course be both time and labour efficient, such as the KitchenAid add-on that grinds sausage meat directly into sausage skins. Titti has been hand-stuffing all her sausages - and I tell you, you did not want to be the happy person to tell her "you know, there is a machine for that". I somehow could tell by the look on her face that she knew that.

The BBC has just announced the fabulous invention of the 3D chocolate printer. It can print 3D images in chocolate, such as letters, shapes and maybe even faces. This is, apparently, a great commercial aspect. So let me ask, how many times in your life have you thought "wow, if I could just print my face in chocolate my life would be so much better/easier". Who wants to eat a chocolate face anyway? The letter thing I get, but - hang on, here it comes - aren't there moulds for that? Or even piping bags? Buying a chocolate printer seems quite an investment when silicone baking moulds are ubiquitous and cheap. Sometimes I think that the scientist stereotype of an out-of-touch-with-reality geek sticks around for a reason...
It actually gets better, this chocolate printer thing. Apparently its inventors want to make a chocolate-oriented website to go with it. Wow. Now that's something that hasn't been done before. I feel I need to give these people some advice: before securing an investment for this amazing project, you might want to find out if it's been done before. There is a machine for that. It's called a computer, and it has something called "Google" which is a bit like an oracle-encyclopaedia hybrid. It's a really good invention that saves both time and money. You might want to try it sometime.

(picture from bbc.co.uk)

torsdag 7 juli 2011

My pet gourmand


As we're about half-way to truffle season (chef André has already tentatively begun caroling) I thought I'd give you another reason why dogs are man's best friend - or at least add my bone to the sayings likening a dog to its owner. To people who have no pets, this may also read as the weekly money-bleeding stupidity of pet-owners and how dogs just lay back and cash in. Jus' giving you a heads up.

Just over a year ago, my husband and I bought two Korean Jindo Dogs. They are a primitive breed of dogs (unlike the man-made messup of the labradoodle) native to the South Korean island of Jindo. The South Korean government has charged two kennels in Europe (one in Sweden and one in the U.K) with starting a pure-bred population of these dogs, in an attempt to stop the mix-breed called Jindo that you can commonly find in the States. Anyway, when we bought these dogs, little did we know what we were in for. Our male, Kiro, just loves food. He'll eat pretty much anything, especially anything that comes in a Bloom container. Our female Ninni however, is not of that uncompromising disposition. They've both been trained, in the comfort of our own home, to find rags drenched in truffle oil. That's all well and good - we're looking forward to trying them out on Gotland sometime soon - but we've discovered something a bit odd about Ninni. It turns out she's a resurrected Michelin inspector.

Jindo dogs are nothing like labradors. They'll for instance not sniff out something just because you asked, they'll do it if they see a point to it. Playing fetch works once, and if you throw the ball a second time you'll get the look that says "if you're stupid enough to throw it over there again, you can go get it yourself". In the same spirit, when Ninni is offered a treat, she'll only eat it if it's a good treat, not if it's some end-piece saved from the trash. Thus, if André, who loves our dogs, tries to offer her a piece of chicken liver, she'll refuse - because she knows there is chicken liver parfait with cognac somewhere in the fridge. Ninni also loves cheese, but not any kind of cheese. If you try offering her a slice of hushållsost you'll get the offended silent treatment for at least an hour. It has to be a mature cheese, preferably Munster och Prästost. The smellier and more flavoursome the better. Having said that, she's not partial to Chévre but will wolf down an entire Tallegio if you don't stop her.
So, what to do with this picky gourmand? Well, because I'm of a curious disposition we bought several kinds of cheese that we knew she liked, two kinds of butter (Normandie with seasalt and regular from Arla) and Pata Negra and Serrano to see if she could learn to differentiate. This is, by the way, what I mean with money-bleeding stupidity. So, with ten minutes of practice, our Ninni knows the difference between Brie and Tallegio, Parmesan and Pecorino, Normandie butter and regular butter, Pata Negra and Serrano. She knows them by name. She also seems to know them by price class, but that's not from our teachings. Oh, and I might want to mention that she's a paramount of etiquette. She has never ever stooped so low as to do a trick in exchange for a treat. She does not tolerate silly behavior from humans either. If they start talking baby-speak and going "who's a good dog" she elegantly makes her displeasure known by a demonstrative exit from the room. But she is a good friend - if she has a tasty treat she will every so often invite her humans to share by depositing half her mouthful on our laps.

So now I'm wondering when the Guide Rouge will call. She's available between morning walk and afternoon nap daily. As she's a teetotaller I'd happily tag along to evaluate the wines. She won't mind.

(image from google.com)

onsdag 6 juli 2011

To serve, or not to serve


I've had a really trying week this week, and as we know trying times never cut us any slack. Especially when it comes to prejudice. Today I have short story on the concept of service.
I know that Bloom has an image in the media of being just short of a jesuit school on etiquette, where you might get rapped over the knuckles for not eating meat or for eating with the wrong fork. The thing about this is that this image is peddled mostly by people who have never set foot in Bloom. If they had, they'd know that we never take offence at any dietary preferences or requirements, and that we'd be happy to have our customers eat with chopsticks if that's what floats their boat. We obviously can't oblige every whim, like serving Coke (Chef would kill me) or serving champagne at 3.30 a.m. (Malmö stad would kill me). But we really do go out of our way to make your night at Bloom an extraordinary experience.
Therefore, my recent experiences in two acclaimed restaurants has left me slightly baffled. When a customer orders something from me at Bloom, I am their living menu. Do you have any idea the difficulty of selling anything without a printed card? The product information along with the price has to be delivered very delicately and without prejudice, making sure the customer understands what is on offer without embarrassment over price or choice.
So, after a very trying day, my very patient and loving husband decided I needed a break, and took me out to a local, well-known establishment. I decided to order a glass of champagne (because who can fail to get some cheer from that?). The drinks menu had two types of bubbly white on glass: the house champagne (the more expensive option) and cava. When I asked the bartender (who happened to be female) for a glass of champagne, she says "we actually have cava too, and it's cheaper". Don't get me wrong, I get this kind of attitude all the time - it's still unbelievable to most in the business that young women, to paraphrase the lingo of my generation, "know shit about fuck". I'm used to it. I don't take it personally anymore. There was a time when I did, and systembolaget staff as a consequence tended to face long interrogations on the effects of the Bourgogne weather in the summer of 2007, but that's another story. Anyway, in the restaurant I re-stated that my order was one glass of the house champagne, and received a two-minute lecture on the similarities of the champagne to the cava. Now, I don't know about you, but to me it's not all in the bubbles. I couldn't help but feel like a part of the cast of "Finding Nemo" (MY BUBBLES!!). Just before my brain imploded I switched to français to avoid carnage. "Donne-moi le champagne. Merde!" Luckily, she got the gist.
I had a similar unfortunate experience involving a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet. I don't feel like I need to recount another story - unlike these restaurants I have faith in that if you've got this far, you must be able to read. I'm also sure that my fellow colleagues can read and I might regret posting this, as my new nickname will be "Dorie" for the next few weeks. But that, along with my damn luck of being born a woman, will be my cross to bear.

(image from google.com)

måndag 4 juli 2011

Do you know what a pig tastes like?

I have been told that there are kids these days who can't tell the difference between a chicken and a duck. I guess it's hard if the only way you've ever had bird meat is in the form of deep-fried nuggets. And after all, they both lay eggs, right? I guess it's a lot to ask when affluent adults who regularly eat at high-end restaurants thought that quail eggs were actually eggs from dwarf chickens (or " "baby eggs", the kind that chicks lay"... say what!?). The same problem of correct identification applies to all the different kinds of dried ham: is it dried? ...Salted? ...Frozen? ....Smoked? ...Spanish? .....Italian?
Luckily we have chefs. With well-trained eyes, noses and palates they swoop to the rescue to tell us when we're actually eating the real deal when it comes to pre-sliced packaged ham. I know for a fact that Titti enjoys playing around with the Pata Negra, so I can't think of any better person to expose the flash-frozen, heavily salted dried ham impostors for what they are.