onsdag 4 januari 2012

Those anthropological observations

What better place to be an anthropologist than in a restaurant? Nowhere else are there such rich pickings of how humanity handles itself. I'm quite sure that every myth about men, women and beasts originated in a restaurant. "What do women want?" Freud famously asked - well, I'm sure it's not a coffee with Mozart liqueur.
For this year, maybe we should look at not the people we're serving, but rather what we serve, from an anthropological standpoint. In the spirit of the New Year. You know, new beginnings, new ideas, new resolutions, new trends. Why do we serve what we serve, and how is it defined? How does it behave on a plate, in a glass, on a table, in the room? Maybe we shouldn't be so terribly materialistic nattering on and on about produce and production, and put more effort into understanding the anthropological roots of a dinner experience. How does red meat behave around root vegetables? What is the social order of two wines, and what are their differences? What are the ancestors of the modern soup course? And, of course, there should be an extensive discourse analysis on how two food items speak to one another, and how they form relationships. How the flavours mix and marry, so to speak.

Or, we can get our asses into chefs jackets and waiters suits and go to work, doing what we do best. See, all these resolutions that pop up when you're about to buy a new calendar, they're mostly nonsense. Just like the narrative above. If you haven't figured whatever it is you want to change out by now, chances are you're not going to during the cold hard moth of January, even if you did find inspiration in a nice glass of champagne around midnight on the 31st.
So, I give you the same resolution we've had since we started: we promise to have fun this year, and find lots of new ways to tickle your tastebuds. We promise to start every evening anew, because we like the amuse bouche to be just that - amusing. And we promise to make every meal exceptional.
Nothing new under the sun, then. Let's do it all over again.

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