måndag 18 juni 2012

Sweden, already a food nation.

Dear Swede, 
You live in a relatively large country with a relatively small population. As in any other country in Europe, a significant part of your people live in cities, but in Sweden you also have a good percentage of people living in the countryside and making a living on their land. Again, as in the rest of Europe, being a farmer is hard, but then again, in Sweden you have a good level of general awareness of how food is made and where it comes from. Sweden has one of the highest percentages of organic food in total food turnovers in the EU. And it's sold in supermarkets (something the EU does not classify as "specialized stores" which is where you find organic food in many other countries)! Many Swedish farmers have chosen to "go organic", and Sweden has a comparatively large area of land being farmed organically. Better still, the organic holdings in your great country are LARGER than the conventional ones! You come out on top of the list when the EU totals its numbers of organic livestock.
The really nice part is that per capita, you spend more on organic food than do most other countries. Your organic markets are determined to be some of the most "mature and developed" in the EU. Also, compared to some countries (I find it rude to point the finger, especially in the middle of a financial crisis) your organic produce is relatively cheap!
(I'm not making all of this up, I read a very long and boring EU analysis on the subject, which you can find here.

So what is this sudden brainwave about which wants Sweden to BECOME a "food nation"? Why do you need to become something you already are? Where they out of the loop when the internet was invented?
I am wholly and absolutely behind the idea that small food businesses providing high-quality organic produce should receive support and attention. But this is not a new thing, and it's obviously not something that the general public in Sweden (or the rest of Europe, if it's in a fancy report) are unaware of. In fact, should a complete alien arrive in Sweden all he needs to do is hop round the local supermarket to find himself some nourishment drawing directly from Swedish soil (you can always complain about ICA's packaging, but that's a wholly different problem).




I get a lot of Messiah-vibes from this organization. See, I don't think Sweden needs to be rescued, food-wise (and what's up with throwing in the "public" meal? Surely food tourists don't stop at the local school for a mind-blowing dining experience?). Sweden needs to be promoted, food-wise. Sweden does not need another bearded hipster telling the world that Västerbottenost is "better" than Parmesan. Sweden needs to roll with that Västerbottenost is v. cool in its own right, if not in foreign cuisine (shaved over a French salad? Oui!) than certainly in it's own. Sweden does not need a food-authority that thinks that the styrofoam-packed gunge served by the state-owned rail company is somehow perceived as representative of Sweden's fab food culture. I wonder how he travels - I've never met anyone who expected a hearty, genuine, home-cooked meal in an airport or train station (maybe he missed the Masterchef episode where they all cooked at 10.000 ft ("everything tastes and looks like garbage") - I think that explains everything).
I think it speaks volumes that this project is basically a collaboration between the government agricultural authority and an ad agency. If you read the fine print, it's purpose is to increase the export of Swedish food. I think the government took the wrong end of the stick and rammed it up their very hard concrete asses with that particular idea: Magnus Nilsson at Fäviken has done more for the cause with a tenth of their budget. I don't see any articles in the New York Times about someone who's contribution to the culinary universe has been two amateur blogs rating odd-end dining experiences.

So what does Sweden need to become the next France? Sweden needs to relax the rules about the production and sale of produce: both in how things are made and who can sell them. You want hand-churned butter? Well, hands aren't very hygienic, they get tired after a long day and there are only one set per person. That butter has a hard time being made (rules and regulations! start-up expenses!) and a hard time being sold (quantity! price! volume!). You want good Swedish wine? Tell your politician to get rid of the monopoly and the 1984-esque treatment of those who want to make it.
And take the school dinners out of the equation. That's a different war - no one ever bought Brie because they heard the French children ate it with organic grapes at school.

Xoxo
A girl who likes her food



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