The art of dining

Linnéa tipped me off about an interesting article in the New York Times. Journalist Sam Sifton discusses an article written by colleague Oliver Strand, and a subsequent reader response http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/09/16/when-food-is-exciting-and-you-are-bored-to-death/. the article discusses how New York restaurant Eleven Madison has reduced its seating and how the chefs serve food directly to the restaurant’s diners, in an attempt to encourage a more interactive dining experience. The article concludes with the reader’s (Brian) response to the article, in which he opines that some fine dining restaurants have such a reverential attitude to the cuisine, that the surroundings – and even the diner – seem secondary.

Although I’ve never experienced fine dining destinations stateside, I’ve tried a few Michelin star establishments in my time and, of course, I am fortunate enough to have Malmö’s finest restaurant almost on my doorstep. I must confess that I am no foodie, but my fine dining experiences couldn’t have been further away from the scenes that Brian refers to, In fact, I would argue that they have piqued my interest in food.

A good restaurant is not about an expensive meal, it’s about sharing someone’s passion. Just as a pair of bespoke shoes are incomparable to a pair of high street shoes in terms of quality, comfort, personal style and even service, so is a good meal. A restaurateur is only as good as his chef and vice-versa, and this is where fine dining establishments such as Bloom excel. For me, the relationship between Titti and Igi is like one of an artist and curator. The way in which Igi explains the provenance of ingredients, composition of flavours and ideas behind each dish is like taking a guided tour. Each course is like a journey of discovery. While of course, the surrounding plays a large role in the Bloom experience, its cosy glow only adds to the nourishing aspect of food and the warmth of the restaurant’s jovial atmosphere, which is due in no small part to Igi’s gregarious character. When I feel the strange yolky sensation of Titti’s chocolate amuse bouche pop on my tongue, or marvel at the tastiness of an unexpected flavour combination I am in awe, but never intimidated. This, to me, is the sign of a fantastic meal, but more importantly, a fabulous evening.