As I began to write this post, I looked out over the verdant pastures of Ludlow in Shropshire, the place where I was born and where Igi ran the restaurant, Overton Grange, prior to his emigration to Malmö. However, my return (for the first time in 39 years) was not so much a sentimental journey, but one of curiosity. We visited the Ludlow Food Festival to discover why a region that boasts more four-legged residents than two-legged has become a foodie capital and the birthplace of the UK’s slowfood movement. As we wound our way through the many stalls, through the throngs of gourmands and other curious visitors, trying freshly cooked local sausages, liquers made from fruits from nearby orchards and hearty vegetable stews, it’s easy to understand why the food is rated so highly, but why, historically has this quiet unspoilt region, been a favourite of the Michelin guide? Ludlow and nearby villages boast no fewer than three Michelin star restaurants: La Bécasse, Mr Underhill’s and the nearby Stag Inn. As the French manager of La Bécasse explained “Everything is produced locally here, so nothing travels very far. This is still very much an agricultural area.”
Farming is not an industry in the region, it is a way of life. As we walked around St Laurence’s church in the town centre, I saw boxes of produce laid at the alter, like the boxes that I once delivered to the elderly during the harvest festival as a schoolgirl. The food that is grown, bred and harvested locally is as integral to the community as religion. This is why restaurants such as La Becasse and indeed, Bloom excel, not just for the culinary skill of master (or mistress) chefs Will Holland and Titti, respectively, but for tapping into local resources, following the way of our ancestors.
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