Right, let's talk.

Norman Granz once said: "I'm concerned with trend. I don't know where jazz fans will come from 20 years from now". I actually had to look the word "trend" up, because it's use in the media lately has been of the kind where it's implied that it means either "prophecy" or "the only way to do things". Just to make sure we're all on the same page, here's the definition of "trend":
1. The general direction in which something tends to move.
2. A general tendency or inclination.
3. Current style; vogue: the latest trend in fashion.
So, "trend" does not imply being right - it's not a subjective judgement of morality, it's an observation of a temporary movement. In short, just because Pallazzo pants are trendy, doesn't mean it makes your ass look any smaller.

In a minute, I'm going to take apart the very unconstructive review from Bong. I just have to prepare the grounds here. Sydsvenskan seem to have employed a bunch of megaphones to run the food-section, and as we've said before: just because you have a voice doesn't necessarily mean you have something sensible to say.

Let's have some fun and start with their complete trashing of El Bullí and Ferran Adriá recently. I mean, what the f-? I really understand that it's very trendy to do the pared-down "close to nature" cuisine (and I'm all for eating fresh, additive-free food), but one does not eliminate the other here. Ferran Adriá's contribution to how we cook (or maybe more importantly, how we CAN cook if we want to) is enormous. It might not be as trendy as it was, but it does not make it any less of an achievement. We're talking of a lifetime of work here. The stuff people in the science community get the Nobel prize for. That, my dear, is the reason El Bullí: Cooking in progress has had such good reviews. It changed the way an entire generation looked at food. And it's not like the thinking behind molecular gastronomy isn't present in how any of the trendy "world's best restaurants" cook today. The way we think about textures, flavours, temperatures (hello 64,5 degree eggs) and presentations has changed forever. I personally think it's very ignorant and foolish to attempt to discredit Adriá's body of work simply because trend has moved us in a different direction. Would you say Mozart is obsolete now that we have Lady Gaga? I don't think so.

So. To Bong. "When in doubt, predict that the present trend will continue". I'm exceptionally surprised at this very puerile review. We've always held Bong to a very high standard. There seems to be no other criticism than that the reviewer has managed to identify a couple of cooking techniques. I'm sorry if I'm breaking some very shocking news to you here, but I don't think there's a restaurant anywhere (perhaps only the best molecular gastronomy kitchens) that are inventing entirely new and original ways of doing things. I'm very sorry we didn't serve up a piece of moss off the roof lightly drizzled with pond water, but that's just not who we are. We ARE all for local, organic, fresh produce, but we'll be damned if all we do with it is peel it and put it on a plate. Bloom offers up entertainment as well as an exceptional meal - there are plenty of other places to go if all you want is produce on a plate in it's most basic form. I'm a firm believer in that people shouldn't succumb to trend, they should interpret trend. And THAT, my dear anonymous reviewer, is what we do. I also would like to apologize for your discomfort at "eating someone's genitalia". I hate to tell you you also ate "someone's" breast, leg, and cheese made from milk which came from a cow's udder. Pardonnez-moi.
Also, I'm exceptionally surprised that Titti isn't mentioned by name. After all, she is one of the best chefs in Sweden (I mean, the White Guide can't be wrong) and she's being booked up for lectures and cook-offs along with some of the biggest names in Europe. What was it you where concerned about eating again? Sorry, off topic. But I'd hate to think this is about some bias thing, be it personal or gender-based.

"I have a trend of my own" said Andrei Platonov. I am going to start one, right here and now. I'm going to "serve and tell". See, we've seen a trend, of sorts. Something which we have to deal with quite often. It's one where "food writers" go out to eat and then tries to get out of paying the bill "because he's a journalist". Well, I don't think you are dear. There's another word for that.